Wearing Linen in Cooler Weather: How to Layer It
You can wear linen in cooler weather as a layer, but not as your only layer. Linen is not a warm fibre, so on its own it will not keep out the cold. It does layer well under and over knits, and a long sleeve linen shirt, top or dress carries through autumn, spring and warm winter days.
Here is what linen does and does not do when the temperature drops, and how to build outfits that stay comfortable.
What "cooler" means depends on where you live
In the northern hemisphere the cool months run from roughly October to March, and in the southern hemisphere from roughly April to September. In places such as the UAE or Singapore, the cold you meet is air conditioning in offices, shops and trains. In each case the question is the same: how do you keep a linen garment working when it is no longer hot?
What linen does and does not do in the cold
- It does not insulate. Wool, fleece and down trap warmth. Linen mostly lets air through. Alone in a cold room, it feels cool.
- It breathes, which helps when layering. A linen layer next to the skin or over a knit does not trap sweat, and it dries quickly if you get caught in the damp.
- It gives structure. A linen shirt or shirt dress has a collar and a shape that a knit does not, so a linen layer smartens up a jumper.
- It suits deep colours. Garnet, Navy Blue, Moss Green, Deep Green, Dark Plum and Brown are among our thirty-six shades. They look right in autumn and hide creases well.
Four ways to layer it
1. A linen shirt over a tee, as a light jacket. The oversized linen long sleeve shirt is 32 inches (81 cm) long with full 21 inch (53 cm) sleeves and a side slit. Worn open over a tee and trousers, it is an overshirt. Buttoned over a thin knit, it is a layer with a collar.
2. A linen top under a jumper. The pintuck blouse with 3/4 sleeves sits comfortably under a cardigan or a lightweight wool knit, and any long sleeve linen top does the same job. Let the collar or the neckline show.
3. A long sleeve dress with tights and boots. The long sleeve linen shirt dress with a belt is 48 inches (122 cm) long, with a collar, a button-down front and 20 inch (51 cm) sleeves. Add tights, boots and a coat for the cold months, and take the coat off indoors.
4. Linen trousers over a base layer. The tapered pants with a full elastic waist are 40 inches (102 cm) long. Wear thermal leggings or tights underneath when it is properly cold. Wide leg linen trousers also layer well because there is room underneath.
For men, the black long sleeve linen shirt is a hip-length shirt with a mandarin collar and full sleeves. It goes under a jacket or a knit and can be worn tucked in or out. Our men's shirts are 100% OEKO-TEX certified European linen at approximately 200 gsm, which is a medium weight and sits well under other layers.
What not to expect
Linen will not replace a winter coat or a wool jumper, and a linen shirt alone is not enough in freezing weather. It also creases under a coat, because layers press against it. That is part of the look, and a steamer or a damp iron resets it.
Caring for linen between seasons
Wash a garment before you put it away for the season, because stored stains are the ones that set. Fold or hang it somewhere dry with air around it, away from plastic and direct sun. Cold or lukewarm water, a gentle cycle and a low heat dry keep the fit. Our answer to does linen shrink and the garment care page explain.
Getting the sleeve and length right
If you plan to wear a knit under a shirt, you need extra room in the sleeve and across the chest, because linen does not stretch. Tell us before you order, or send your measurements through the custom order page, and we cut to them at no extra cost. The size guide lists the standard sizes. For different shirt styles, see our guide to women's linen shirts, and for warm weather, linen in heat and humidity.
The verdict
Treat linen as a good middle layer for the in-between months. Pick long sleeves, deeper colours and a cut with room for a knit underneath. Browse linen shirts and the men's collection.
Frequently asked questions
Can you wear linen in winter?
Yes, as a layer, usually indoors or under a coat. Linen does not insulate like wool, so it works best over or under warmer pieces.
Is linen warm or cold?
It is a cool fabric. It lets air through and dries quickly, which is excellent in heat and not helpful as your only layer in the cold.
What should I wear under a linen shirt in cold weather?
A thin merino or cotton tee works for mild days. For colder days, add a knit over the shirt rather than relying on the linen for warmth.
Which colours of linen suit autumn and winter?
Deeper shades such as Garnet, Navy Blue, Moss Green, Deep Green, Dark Plum and Brown. They also show creases less than pale colours.
Will linen shrink if I wash it for winter storage?
Not if you wash it cold or lukewarm and dry it on low heat or hang it. Hot water and a hot dryer are what cause shrinkage.