How Should a Men's Linen Shirt Fit?
A men's linen shirt should fit a little easier than a cotton dress shirt: shoulder seam at the edge of your shoulder, room to move through the chest, and a length that works untucked. Linen does not stretch, so a shirt that is snug on day one will pull and crease across the body all day.
Shoulders: get this right first
The shoulder seam should sit on the bony point at the edge of your shoulder, or a fraction beyond it for a relaxed style. Shoulders are the one part of a shirt that is hard to alter, so if the shoulders fit and everything else is close, it is the right size.
A deliberately dropped shoulder is a design choice on oversized styles and is fine. A shoulder seam halfway down the arm on a regular fit shirt means it is too big.
Chest: more room than you think
Button the shirt and reach forward as if driving. If the buttons pull into X shaped creases, it is too tight. Linen has almost no give, so it needs more ease than a stretch cotton shirt: as a rough guide, the finished shirt should measure several inches more around the chest than your body does. That extra room is also what keeps linen cool.
Sleeves
With your arms relaxed, a long sleeve should end around the wrist bone. Linen shirts are usually worn rolled, so a sleeve slightly on the long side is better than one that rides up. Short sleeves should end around mid bicep and sit away from the arm rather than gripping it.
Length: tucked or untucked
Most linen shirts are worn untucked. For that, the hem should fall roughly to the middle of your trouser zip, covering the waistband without reaching the crotch. If you want to tuck it in too, go slightly longer. Curved hems give you a little more length at the back.
Relaxed, regular or slim?
- Relaxed: the natural fit for linen. Coolest, most forgiving, reads casual. Most of our men's linen shirts are cut this way.
- Regular: a straight body with moderate ease. Smarter, works under a jacket.
- Slim: possible, but linen's lack of stretch works against it. Expect more creasing across the back and chest.
How to choose your size
Take a shirt you already like the fit of, lay it flat, and measure it: chest across from armpit to armpit (doubled), sleeve, back length and shoulders. Compare those to the garment measurements in our size guide. Comparing garment to garment is more reliable than guessing from a body measurement.
If you fall between sizes, go up in linen. If no size fits your shoulders and chest at the same time, or you are tall and every shirt is short, send your measurements through the custom order page and we cut it to you.
What our men's shirts are made of
100% OEKO-TEX certified European linen, medium weight at approximately 200 gsm, pre-washed to reduce shrinkage. Every shirt is made to order: 2 to 5 business days in production, then 10 to 20 business days of standard tracked delivery. Good starting points are the relaxed fit pure linen shirt and the mandarin collar half placket shirt.
Frequently asked questions
Should a linen shirt be loose or fitted?
Slightly loose. Linen has no stretch, so it needs more room than a cotton shirt to move comfortably, and the extra space is what keeps it cool.
Should I size up in a linen shirt?
If you are between sizes, yes. A linen shirt that is slightly too big looks relaxed; one that is slightly too small pulls and creases across the chest and back.
Where should the shoulder seam sit on a linen shirt?
On the bony point at the edge of your shoulder, or just past it on a relaxed style. Shoulders are hard to alter, so fit them first.
How long should an untucked linen shirt be?
Roughly to the middle of your trouser zip: long enough to cover the waistband, short enough not to reach the crotch.
Will a linen shirt shrink?
Unwashed linen can shrink a little. Our men's shirts are pre-washed to reduce shrinkage; wash cold and avoid the tumble dryer to keep the fit.