In the 1700s, a long journey through France and Italy was the finishing school of wealthy young Europeans, especially from Britain. It was called the Grand Tour, and its most famous stop was Rome, where travellers came face to face with the ruins, statues and carved gems of the ancient world.
Souvenirs you could wear
Ancient engraved gems were among the most prized things a traveller could bring home. They were small, beautiful and full of classical stories: gods, emperors, heroes and animals cut into hardstone. Collectors arranged them in cabinets, and the best pieces changed hands for large sums.
The glass copies
Demand soon outran the supply of ancient gems, so craftsmen began making faithful copies. Impressions were taken from famous originals and cast in coloured glass paste, which captured the carving in fine detail. The Scottish modeller James Tassie became one of the best known makers, producing a vast catalogue of glass reproductions from his London workshop in the late 18th century.
These glass intaglios were not seen as cheap imitations. They let scholars, artists and travellers own and study designs that would otherwise sit in a few private cabinets, and they were set into rings, fobs and seals.
From cabinet to jewellery box
Through the 19th century, classical motifs moved firmly into fashion. Victorian jewellers set carved stones and glass into brooches, bracelets and earrings, often framed in gold with pearls. The look you see in our jewellery collection, a carved glass stone in a beaded gold frame, follows directly from that tradition.
Wearing the Grand Tour look today
- One strong piece. A Roman style intaglio cocktail ring carries an outfit on its own.
- Classical motifs. Look for profiles and the laurel wreath, both common on Roman gems.
- Clear glass. Clear and pale stones show the carving most sharply, closest to the look of a seal impression.
Frequently asked questions
What was the Grand Tour?
A long educational journey through Europe, especially Italy, taken by wealthy young travellers in the 17th to early 19th centuries.
Who was James Tassie?
A Scottish modeller of the 18th century who made glass paste reproductions of engraved gems and cameos, sold widely to collectors.
Were glass intaglios valued in their time?
Yes. Good glass casts were collected and studied, and were set into rings and seals.